Most leathers generally do not need much day-to-day maintenance – periodic dusting with a soft, dry cloth should be enough. It is important to avoid placing leather sofas near heat sources or direct light. Oily stains are the biggest danger to leather surfaces. In the event of stains from oils, fats, makeup, chocolate or beverages, remove any excess liquid by dabbing with an absorbent paper towel. Gently wipe the stain from the outside edges towards the centre with a clean cloth dampened with water and neutral soap. Dry the stain, gently wiping with a dry cloth. When cleaning oily stains do not press hard, as this can cause the substance to enter the pores of the leather. Natural leathers are so called because of their natural and uncoated nature. In this regard, natural leathers may incur marks or discrepancy of colour where it has come into contact with belt buckles or studding for example. This is a standard occurance and forms part of the leathers character and uniqueness.
Aniline leather is often thicker and softer than coated leathers. It has natural characteristics such as scoring and vein lines, which are enhanced by wear, resulting in the leather changing appearance over time.
Nubuck and Suede Nubuck leathers have then been further processed to raise fibres on the grain side of the hide to give it a suede effect. Suede is the natural underside of the hide with raised fibres which give it a softer feeling. It is susceptible to oily stains as it cannot be protected. This product is not recommended for placement in high-use areas.
The leather has a light colour and finish applied to the surface which reveals the natural characteristics of the hide to a lesser extent and increases the resistance to wear. This process balances out dye colour irregularities and allows a greater colour range.
Pigmented The surface of this leather has a pigment applied and a heavier protective coating, giving a limitless colour range and excellent wear characteristics. Pigmented leathers are produced in two basic forms – Full Grain, which shows natural grain variation and all marks, and Corrected Grain, which has undergone a process where some of the grain layer and most of the natural hide marks are removed. The surface then has a print embossed on it giving a more uniform appearance.
Wax Effect/Pull Up
There are many variations of this leather. It is generally aniline dyed leather which has been given a wax or oily impregnation. This gives the leather a nice feel and affords light protection. The application of the wax or oil gives a depth of colour which cannot be duplicated by surface colour and will age beautifully over-time. These leathers are affected by sunlight and heat. They generally scratch relatively easily, but in many cases scratches can be lightened by rubbing.
Although our timber collections often have lacquered surfaces and can mostly tolerate the heat from coffee cups and dinner plates, they cannot tolerate greater temperatures from dishes heated on the stove-top or in conventional or microwave ovens. The general rule is: if something is too hot to hold, it is too hot to place on timber. These hotter containers can mark the timber. The lacquer is also water resistant, however cannot tolerate excessive quantities of liquid. Dry any spills immediately and polish the surface, otherwise liquid may seep through the lacquer and cause irreparable damage. Other spills, such as glue or correction fluid, should be removed with a damp cloth (soapy if necessary) then dried and re-polished until the gloss returns. Do not allow hot cooking utensils, methylated spirits, pens, textas, nail varnish and other similar substances to come into contact with your timber furniture. Your solid timber furniture is a natural product and may expand and contract due to varying temperature conditions, occasionally producing small cracks within or between the timbers. This is normal and often part of a piece’s character. To minimise movement the furniture should not be placed outside, in direct sunlight, or in heavily airconditioned areas. Solid timber needs to be polished regularly to maintain optimum condition – polishing cleans and nourishes the wood, protects it and highlights its character. When polishing, work along the grain of the timber, rub in the polish well and buff immediately, making sure you polish out all scratches.
Timber species commonly used in joinery:
Tasmanian Oak/Victorian Ash (Hardwood)
Tasmanian Oak and Victorian Ash are collective names for timber of the species Eucalyptus Delegatensis, Regnans and Obliqua (members of the group of Eucalypts known as the ‘Ash group’). The Ash group grows in all areas of Tasmania, except the west coast, and in parts of Victoria and southern NSW and ACT. This timber is readily worked to a smooth, flat, resilient surface. It can be stained to almost any shade and is regarded as one of the best and most versatile finishing timbers available.
Elm (Hardwood) Various species of the genus Ulmus occur in Europe, Western Asia, North America and Japan. The heartwood is a dull brown colour which is clearly defined, when green, from the lighter coloured sapwood. The irregular growth rings, together with the cross-grained character of the wood, give it an attractive appearance.
Oak – European and American (Hardwood)
The genus Quercus with more than two hundred separate species produces the true oaks. Most are found in the northern hemisphere where, in temperate regions, they may form pure strands or be a dominant species in mixed woodlands. In warmer countries they tend to occupy the mountain areas. Oaks fall into three groups: red, white, and evergreen or live oaks. Varying in colour from a light yellow to a dark red, this very strong timber has been used for hundreds of years in furniture making and can be stained to almost any shade.
Ash – European and American (Hardwood)
Ash can be any of four different tree genera from four very distinct families but originally, and most commonly, refers to trees of the genus Fraxinus (from Latin ‘ash tree’) in the olive family Oleaceae. The ashes are usually medium to large trees and mostly deciduous, though a few subtropical species are evergreen. The wood is hard, elastic and very strong, and is generally used for pieces demanding strength and resilience.
Painted Timber Finishes
Always avoid cleaning painted timber with liquids and harsh chemicals. To clean your painted timber surface, use a dust cloth or feather duster to remove dust and debris. Removing dust is essential as dust collection absorbs and holds moisture on humid days and damp evenings, causing the timber to expand/crack. You may use a slightly damp cloth or mild detergent in lukewarm water to remove liquids that might stain, however be sure that the cloth is not soaked excessively and the surface is dried with a clean dry cloth immediately after wetting.
Rattan or cane furniture and accessories are fashioned from the steam-bent poles of the rattan palm, a spiny sub-tropical climbing palm that grows like a vine. The outer skin of the rattan palm is peeled for use as binder cane, whereas slab shave rattan is for weaving panels and caning chair seats. The inner core is cut for use in wickerwork and basketry. It is known as reed and available in several widths, diameters and shapes including round, oval, flat-oval and flat. To clean rattan furniture brush regularly with a dry medium-bristle brush, such as a vegetable brush, to remove dirt build-up from between the reed strands. If very dirty, or to spot clean stains, use a mild detergent or a furniture cleaner. Take care however, as although rattan, wicker and cane can withstand moisture to a certain extent, they will become limp, loose and saggy with too much water. Wicker will resume its size and shape when it dries, but if too much water has been used in cleaning, the strands of reed may be disturbed and remain distorted after drying. Some rattan and cane products are sun-bleached, distressed and/or stained. Sun-bleached or distressed cane is lighter in colour and generally a little harder than a natural or dark colour cane. Minor chipping or fading of stained or painted rattan and cane can be touched up with stain-pens, available through our showrooms. Cane is sometimes recommended for outdoor use, however if left outdoors it will deteriorate after a few years depending on exposure to the elements. If you desire an outdoor cane-look setting, we recommend that you purchase a synthetic woven product.
One London House use finest fabrics and materials. By following these basic care and maintenance guidelines you will be able to enjoy your new purchase for many years to come.
Everything from the location of your furniture to the way you use it can affect its preservation and longevity. Avoid placing furniture where it can touch an external wall as this can create moisture build-up. Likewise, placing it too close to radiators can increase the risk of scorching damage or discolouration.
Also avoid sitting on the edges of the cushions or on the arms as this can add excess pressure to the seams and cause distortion to the padding and fabric. Be aware that sharp objects such as buckles, rings and even the claws of your pets can tear and scratch the furniture.
Protect your furniture from direct sunlight and rotate reversible cushions at regular intervals. Vacuum all cushions weekly on a low suction setting to remove any dust particles that may damage the structure of the fabric.
All cushions require regular and ongoing maintenance. The easiest methods are to regularly ‘plump’ and change cushions from one side of the piece to the other, or simply flip them over to distribute wear. Some fabrics may naturally ‘creep’ or ‘slide’ over time and with use. Flipping will minimise this, however sometimes it is necessary to unzip the cushion and pull or rub the fabric back into place.
Feather & Down
Feather-filled cushions, especially when used as base cushions, require regular ‘plumping’ and flipping. If this is not done their appearance and comfort level may deteriorate.
Feather-filled ‘wraps’ or ‘feathered layers’ have inserts filled with feather wrapped around a foam core. This is one of the best quality cushion fillings in the industry and requires minimal maintenance.
These cushions are manufactured using only the best reflex foams with a light fibre wrap applied to further improve comfort and appearance. This cushion provides a more tailored look and requires the least amount of maintenance, although cushions still require plumping and turning to even out wear and prolong their durability.
Regular flipping and rearrangement of fibre cushions is essential. Poly Fibre inserts in particular should be plumped up daily and their position interchanged to maintain their appearance and allow the fillings a chance to recover.
We recommend that you take advantage of our Guardsman Plus Protection Plan to protect your new furniture. This gives peace of mind against any stains or accidental damage resulting in rips, tears, burns or scratches. Wherever possible, their network of expert repair technicians will repair the damage or look to source new parts. In the event that parts are not available, the item will be replaced.
Protect your furniture from moist environments like a bathroom, damp basement or near water. Exposure to humidity can cause deterioration of your item.
Every leather hide is unique and may therefore have some natural markings or slight variations in colour. Our craftsmen utilise the natural grain of the leather when upholstering our furniture and use their skill to reveal the full character and beauty of the material. In day-to-day use, leather does not require much maintenance; periodic dusting with a soft, dry cloth should suffice. It is important to avoid placing leather sofas near heat sources or direct light.
Marbles/Natural Stone/ Petrified Wood
Marbles, Natural Stones & Petrified Wood come in many natural colours and each presents natural veining. The colouration and veining are all determined by the minerals present during formation. Veining can often provide a certain inconsistency in the surface texture of your table top and might even require some fill to be used. These variations and natural markings are to be expected.
You can re-polish your surfaces with a coat of natural paste wax as desired. This will restore the shine and protect the surface. As you would with a fine piece of wood furniture, always use placemats, coasters, and trivets and clean any spills immediately with clear water and wipe with a dry cloth. Regular rubbing alcohol is a perfect product to use for day-to-day cleaning.
Natural Woods / Veneers / Lacquered Surfaces
By dusting regularly, the beauty of Natural woods, veneers & lacquered finishes will be preserved. In this way, individual spots on the furniture will in all probability not stick persistently.
To remove stubborn soiling, a small amount of furniture polish should be used in conjunction with a soft humid cloth. Drops of water or alcohol must be quickly wiped away as they can attack the finishes and cause stains. Aggressive cleaning agents should never be used since they generally contain solvents or chemical substances which attack the lacquered finishes or can even damage them irreparably.
Glass & Mirror
Wipe the surface with glass cleaner and a soft cloth.
Dust regularly using a soft dry cloth. For a more thorough cleaning, use mild soap and warm water. Rinse with clean water and wipe dry. Do NOT use steel wool, sandpaper, mineral acid, bleach, or chlorine cleaners on metal surfaces.
FURNITURE CARE INSTRUCTIONS
This guide will instruct you on the best ways to care for your pieces so that you can maximize their life. The location of your furniture can affect its longevity. Placing furniture where it can touch external walls can create moisture build-up, and placing it too close to radiators, heaters and gas or wood fires can increase the risk of scorching damage or discoloration. Sharp objects such as buckles, rings and even the claws of your pets can tear, scratch or break the furniture. Protect from direct sunlight and rotate reversible cushions at regular intervals. Vacuum cushions weekly on low suction and take care with surfaces.
Vacuum or wipe with a cloth regularly to remove dust. Clean with a damp cloth and mild soap and water or a soft Leather cleaner. Blot all spills immediately with a clean, dry cloth. Do not rub. Do not use abrasive or corrosive cleaners as they will damage the Leather. Avoid direct sunlight.
All Fabrics are labeled Cleaning Code “S”. Spot clean only with a water-free dry cleaning solvent. Pretest a small, inconspicuous area before proceeding. Do not saturate. DO NOT USE WATER. Pile Fabrics may require brushing with a nonmetallic, soft bristle brush to restore appearance. Cushion covers should not be removed and dry-cleaned. To prevent overall soiling, frequent vacuuming or light brushing with a non-metallic, soft bristle brush to remove dust and grime is recommended. When cleaning a spill, blot immediately to remove spilled material. Evenly clean the entire panel in a seam to seam fashion. Do not clean just the spots or stains. We highly recommends having your upholstery professionally cleaned. All other methods of cleaning could void the manufacturer’s warranty. Contact the Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification to locate a certified upholstery cleaning professional in your area. www.iicrc.org
FEATHER AND DOWN CUSHIONS
To keep your feather and down cushions looking their best and to give you maximum comfort, it is essential that they are maintained and “fluffed” regularly. We recommend that you drop the cushion on its border (the narrow side) and repeat this on all four sides. This separates and adds air back into the feathers. This process will keep your down and feathers from becoming naturally compressed while maintaining the look and luxury of feather blends.
Our Wood collections often have lacquered surfaces and can mostly tolerate the heat from coffee cups and dinner plates, however they cannot tolerate greater temperatures from dishes heated on the stove-top or in conventional or microwave ovens. The lacquer is also water resistant, however cannot tolerate excessive quantities of liquid. Dry any spills immediately and polish the surface, otherwise liquid may seep through the lacquer and cause irreparable damage. Your solid Wood furniture is a natural product and may expand and contract due to varying temperature conditions. Remove ordinary household dust with a soft, clean cloth, wiping with the grain. If using a furniture dusting-aid product, make sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions on the product.
Stainless Steel does not stain, corrode or rust as easily as ordinary steel however, it is not actually stain or rust proof. In extreme coastal locations or if the Steel is regularly subjected to water, brown discoloration (tea staining) can appear on the surface of products. Tea staining can normally be removed with mild abrasive cleaner and warm soapy water.
NICKEL, BRASS, COPPER, PEWTER AND SILVER
Keep metal dry to prevent tarnishing which can dull or destroy the surface. Avoid using abrasive cleaners that can scratch and dull metal surfaces. Rub the metal with straight back-and-forth motions, rather than in circles, to help maintain a uniform appearance. Apply metal cleaner with a clean, soft, lint-free cloth and prevent undiluted liquid dish-washing detergents from coming into direct contact with metal as it can damage the finish.
IRON AND BRONZE
Iron and Bronze pieces just need an occasional wax. However, in high traffic areas or areas that are exposed to abnormal interior humidity, Iron may require more frequent maintenance.
Marble, Travertine, Granite, Limestone, and Cement Stone are very delicate and must be cleaned with neutral, gentle cleaners. Acids, even the mild acid in vinegar, will dissolve the finish and permanently etch the surface. Stone is very porous and therefore it likes to soak in liquid spills. If liquid spills do occur, wipe it dry as soon as possible by blotting dry with a clean cloth. The best method for cleaning Stone is to wet a clean cloth with lukewarm water to wipe the surface, and to remove any marks. You can use a very mild detergent to remove any tricky stains, but try and limit to once every few months. Do not place glasses directly on Stone, and always use a dry cloth to dry and shine the Stone to prevent liquids from getting into the Stone core.
SHELL AND PIECED AGATE
Shell is a natural product. It is essential to keep away from direct sunlight, strong sources of heat or very dry atmospheres. Avoid using strong abrasives or alcohol to polish the Shell, as this will destroy its natural color. To clean your Shell surface, simply wipe down occasionally with a clean, slightly damp cloth, and then blot dry.
Glass and/or Mirrored surfaces require low maintenance. A weekly wipe with a slightly damp cloth is sufficient. Objects placed on Glass or Mirrored Glass should always have a felt protector applied to the underside of the item so as not to scratch the surface. Further, items placed on the Glass should be the correct weight for the Glass thickness.
RESIN AND ACRYLIC
Resin and Acrylic are both synthetic materials that can easily scratch and mark. Avoid placing sharp objects on their surfaces. Certain solvents can damage Resin and Acrylic, so it is best to keep your furniture away from harsh chemicals. To clean your furniture, use a mild detergent in lukewarm water with a clean soft cloth to wipe the surface down. Always rinse the detergent off the surface with a new clean cloth. Once the surface has been appropriately cleaned, dry the surface by blotting with a clean soft cloth.
Silver Leafing is a multi-step, hand applied process. The Silver Leaf sheets are tissue paper thin foil squares made of a variety of metals, mostly copper and zinc. Silver Leafing is a skilled, timely and expensive manufacturing process. Consumer care is simple dusting or a cloth dampened with water and then dried with a clean cloth. Do not use aerosol cleaners or oils on the Silver Leaf.